Ready, set, eat! Denver Restaurant Week, a seven-day dining celebration that first kicked off in 2005, returns for its fifth run in February. And considering the cold economy, it's no surprise that gastronomes already are taking a bite out of the recession by clogging restaurant phone lines and Opentable.com with reservation requests.

If you haven't participated in Restaurant Week in the past, it's all about a gazillion restaurants (at last count, it was more than 200 - and we're not talking about the likes of Macaroni Grill, the Cheesecake Factory or Applebee's) proffering multicourse dinners for the fixed price of $52.80 for two, or $26.40 for one. (Tax and gratuity are not included.)

The deal, offered Feb. 21-27, is a terrific opportunity to eat high on the hog at prices that won't make your throat swell and your wallet sweat.

"Many of the restaurants see this as an opportunity to show off their eatery, get new customers and reward old ones," says Rich Grant, director of communications of Visit Denver, the organization that first launched Restaurant Week. "This is not a week about making money for the restaurants; it's a week about savoring, enjoying and discussing restaurants, a week where every water cooler conversation is about where you dined last night, how much you liked it and where you're going to eat next," he says.

In 2008, 174 restaurants and more than 158,000 diners participated in Denver Restaurant Week. This February, says Grant, the number of on-board restaurants already is 16 percent above last year. "There is some good-natured competition between the restaurants to offer the best menu and create the biggest buzz," says Grant.

You can book reservations directly through participating restaurants, but I would heed the advice of Denver restaurant consultant John Imbergamo: "My suggestion would be to book early and use OpenTable.com to find availability - you can check for restaurant reservations with one click."

"Many restaurants will be extending their Denver Restaurant Week menus past Feb. 27, opening up more seats for consumers," notes Imbergamo.

But where to go? The Denver Restaurant Week Web site - denver.org/denverrestaurant/ - lists all of the participating restaurants, along with menus, but if you're having indecision issues, here are my recommendations:

* Root Down: It's new, it's hip and the amazing plates turned out by executive chef Ryan Leinonen, formally of The Kitchen in Boulder, are some of the most thrilling foodstuffs in Denver. But here's a forewarning: It's insanely crowded and noisy and will likely be double the bodies and double the decibel level during the cluster-craze of Restaurant Week. But if you can score a reservation, it's a fantastic experience that shouldn't be missed. 1600 W. 33rd Ave.; rootdowndenver.com.

* Restaurant Kevin Taylor: Thanks to the mile-high prices - some of the most skyscraping in the city - it's unlikely that Kevin Taylor's namesake restaurant is one that you'll hit during the year, so don a jacket and a tie or your little black dress and reward yourself with a taste of luxury in opulent surroundings that you seldom see in your everyday life. 1106 14th St.; restaurantkevintaylor.com.

* Rioja: Jennifer Jasinski's exemplary Mediterranean food is always a hit, no matter the week, but this is one of the few restaurants that offers its entire menu during the seven-day tempest, which means you can choose from among several appetizers and entrees, including the house-made mozzarella, mini oyster "po' boys," candied lemon gnocchi, artichoke tortelloni plumped with goat cheese and artichoke mousse and oven-roasted pistachio- crusted wild salmon. Some dishes carry a supplemental per-person charge, but Jasinski's food is worth every extra dollar you spend. 1433 Larimer St.; riojadenver.com.

* Mizuna: The crown jewel of Frank Bonanno's restaurant empire, Mizuna is an expensive restaurant (deservedly), but even penny-pinching food nerds find it irresistible, thanks to a seamlessly run kitchen that doesn't miss a beat, flawless servers that cater to your every whim and a beautifully cozy dining room swathed in butter hues that's far more inviting than the minimalist and stark quarters popping up like tulips everywhere else in Denver. 225 E. 7th Ave.; mizunadenver.com.

* The Capital Grille: Back in the day - you know, before the economy tanked - high-rolling regulars spent so much time at this see-and-be-seen steakhouse that it became their second address, and with good reason: The steaks at Capital Grill, none of which ring in at less than $40, are stately slabs of carnivorous rhapsody. The fact that the kitchen is doling out two steaks for nearly the price of one during Restaurant Week is a deal that's just too bullishly good to pass up. 1450 Larimer St.; thecapitalgrille.com.

* Jax Fish House: Swimming with all things piscatory, the surf's always up at Jax, where they shell out some of the best oysters - fried, grilled and raw - in the city, coupled with a sadistically good lobster roll and other crowd-pleasers like the shrimp and andouille sausage gumbo. It's smaller than a clam shell and you can bet that securing a seat isn't going to be easy, but Jax is one of those joints that really excels when it's firing on all burners. 1539 17th St.; jaxfishhousedenver.com.

Eat well and tip generously.