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WEINBERG'S WINE NOTES: More cold-season picks

Published February 24, 2009 at 3 p.m.

Last week I reviewed wines perfect for winter. One of the wonderful things about wine is that it evokes memories of other great juice and also anticipation for the next bottle. Obviously, a lot of wines work with winter activities and meals.

So, even though I recently recommended several suitable for cold weather, it just seemed natural to add to the list while the wines were still on my mind.

Although white wines are not what most people turn to in the winter, some have sufficient body to satisfy me on even the coldest nights. The classically styled Helfrich Gewurztraminer from Alsace, France, is a completely decadent drink. Brimming with the classic tropical trifecta of pineapple, guava and papaya, this wine delivers the goods with very little fuss. Fragrant and fruity, it's perfect for a winter afternoon when life is already complicated enough.

I also like the rich and round Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Solaire from the Santa Lucia Highlands in California, with its aromas of citrus and pineapple and flavors of cinnamon, ginger and vanilla. It's delicious in an old-fashioned California sort of way, like a sofa that is so comfortable you wouldn't even think of replacing it.

While I'm talking about whites, don't forget the medium- bodied Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo, a solid mouthful of green melon and Braeburn apples. This wine reminds me of my experiences during various youthful trips through Europe, where I discovered everyday drinking wine and realized that I liked it.

Since many of us eat more during winter to generate extra energy (or so I tell myself), roses are often a good choice, although not necessarily an obvious one. The higher acidity and lip-smacking qualities of good roses increase the appetite, and they're delicious enough to drink by themselves, as well.

Seek out the Coto de Hayas Rosado from Campo de Borja, Spain. It smells remarkably like fresh orange peel but adds strawberries and raspberries on the palate. The moderate finish of this surprising mouthful of juice is crisp and doesn't linger, which lets one take the next sip without regret.

As for reds, they're an easy match with frigid temperatures because of their generally heavier mouth feel and body that snuggle up to hearty foods. Go for the Lenotti Bardolino Classico, with aromas of dark cherries and flavors of baking spice, chocolate and raspberry. A serious wine at a reasonable price.

Another winning red is the Cline Cellars Ancient Vines Mourvedre, solid and unpretentious yet unabashedly delicious. Silky plums and soft tannins dominate this mysterious red, and the finish is all cocoa and smoke. Try this one with braised short ribs and watch both food and wine disappear down hungry maws.

I'm also quite fond of the Ironstone Cabernet Franc Reserve from the Sierra Foothills of California, with its hearty dose of plum, black fruits and mellow, sweet oak. Made from premium grapes out of top vineyards, it is full yet smooth, what wine should be.

Winter can be a claustrophobic time, when cabin fever tries to pull us into its frenzied embrace. But there are ways around this blizzard of depression, and one solution is to drink great wine that matches the season. So I hope you use these recommendations to create your own winter wine wonderland.

* I'd like to invite you to the first Maya & Leah's Night wine tasting and charity auction, benefiting the Ronald McDonald House and Children's Hospital, 6 to 8 p.m. May 9 at Bistro Al Vino, 15352 E. Ida Drive, Centennial. Maya, my niece, was diagnosed with a brain tumor at age 3. She's fighting hard, and if you'd like to contribute time, tasting wine or auction items including wine, please contact me at the e-mail address below.

benweinberg@mywinenation.com

Recommended

WHITE

* Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2007 (Alsace, France) $15

* Robert Mondavi Chardonnay Solaire 2007 (Santa Lucia Highlands, Calif.) $15

* Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo 2007 (Campania, Italy) $25

ROSE

* Coto de Hayas Rosado 2007 (Campo de Borja, Spain) $9

RED

* Lenotti Bardolino Classico 2006 (Veneto, Italy) $14

* Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre 2007 (Contra Costa County, Calif.) $16

* Ironstone Cabernet Franc Reserve 2006 (Sierra Foothills, Calif.) $28

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