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SKI SCHOOL: Beaver Creek's comfort zone worth the drive
Published February 23, 2009 at 6 p.m.
Pop quiz: It's a holiday, and you're looking for a ski area with good snow, easy access and minimal crowds. Where do you go?
That was the situation I found myself in on Presidents Day with my daughter, Moira; my old ski buddy, Boomer; and his son, Pat.
Call me lazy, but with Vail being my favorite resort, it's easy to turn left into the Vail Village when you know the snow is cold, light and deep. But on this day, I was looking for something different, primarily good snow, easy access and minimal crowds.
So we decided to bypass Vail and head to Beaver Creek, an area I hadn't skied in a while.
Beaver Creek lies on the furthermost perimeters for a Colorado day ski trip. It lives in the quiet shadows of Vail and, more often than not, is an afterthought, especially for the Front Range skier. It takes a concerted effort to make the drive to Beaver because one must pass at least a half-dozen world-class resorts (not the least of which is Vail) to get there.
Touted as an exclusive resort that caters to the rich and the elite, Beaver Creek easily can be overshadowed by its reputation and not given the respect or consideration for the great area it truly is. Some might even call it Vail's little sister, but make no mistake, this lady can easily hold her own with her big brother.
It's a little bit farther of a drive, about 15 minutes west of Vail off Interstate 70 at the Avon exit. But the comfort zone it offers is worth the extra time on the road for many who ski Beaver Creek with any regularity. Attempts to explore the mountain might sometimes be thrown by the wayside to ski terrain you like or that you're familiar with.
But as I found out on my visit, there's a lot more to Beaver Creek than meets the eye. And it starts with that reputation.
Elite? Yes. Snobby? Not a chance, despite its slogan, Not exactly roughing it. (In addition to the first-class amenities one would expect, an escalator carts skiers to the Centennial Express Lift at the base.)
And don't think for a second that Beaver Creek's terrain doesn't rival Vail's. Most skiers limit themselves to the groomers off the Centennial or Cinch lifts, the occasional detour into Strawberry Park or the bumps on Grouse Mountain. But there's more, a whole lot more.
Beaver Creek is composed of five individual mountains (Beaver Creek, Grouse Mountain, Larkspur Bowl, Bachelor Gulch and Arrowhead) and offers everything from neatly pressed, corduroy groomers to massive bumps, magnificent tree skiing, a world-class downhill course and extreme steeps.
Getting there
Head west on Interstate 70 to the Avon exit, then follow the signs to the mountain. Free parking is offered in the Elk, Wolf and Bear lots located off U.S. 6 at the base of the mountain. (There's pay parking at Beaver Creek Village, but it's more expensive and a hassle.) Free shuttles provide mountain access and run every 5 to 10 minutes. I suggest parking in the Bear Lot because it tends to not fill up as quickly as the others.
Getting around the mountain
* Most skiers go straight to Beaver Creek Village and head toward the Centennial Lift, which can be boring and, on busy days, a mistake.
Instead, take the shuttle and get off at the first stop and the Beaver Creek Mountain Express Lift. This gives you access to the runs and other lifts higher up Bachelor Gulch Mountain. It's a great place to start because it can serve as a warm-up for the entire family. The runs are fun, groomed to perfection and, even on the busiest of days, often have no crowds. It's like having your own private ski area.
* From Bachelor Gulch, you can move farther up the mountain toward Strawberry Park or Larkspur Bowl. On powder days, this side of the mountain can be virtually untouched and offers some of the best tree skiing this side of Steamboat. From here, you have your choice as you move up the mountain: Head toward the bumps at Grouse Mountain or take the Birds of Prey Lift toward the upper mountain lifts on Beaver Creek.
The top of Beaver Creek might have the best cruising runs and learn-to-ski terrain in all of ski country, and it's all situated at the top of the mountain where you'll find spectacular views and mellow terrain.
* All of that said, don't be fooled into thinking Beaver Creek won't challenge you: It also offers some serious double-black-diamond extreme terrain in the Stone Creek Chutes. Take the Cinch Express to the top of the mountain and follow the Red Buffalo Trail (yes, it's a green run) and, as you head downhill, look for the access gates on the skier's right. This terrain should not be taken lightly because it has cliffs, steeps, chutes and trees that demand you respect the mountain.
On-mountain dining
Beaver Creek offers several restaurants, ranging from everyday fare to reservation-only fine dining. Beano's Cabin and Zach's Cabin both offer sumptuous dining via sleigh, and reservations are required.
Craig McNeil is a certified Primary Movements instructor. To order his book, How to Ski the Blues and Blacks without Getting Black and Blue, or to contact him, go to his Web site, HowToSki.net
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