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Expert pitches a few remarkable campsites

Johnny Malloy is to tent camping as John McCain is to politics, Emeril Lagasse is to cooking and Bruce Springsteen is to rock 'n' roll.

He literally lives to camp.

Malloy spent 183 nights in a tent last year, 203 in 2006 and more than 130 annually since 1997. In the process, he's written 31 books on the subject, including The Best in Tent Camping: Colorado (Menasha Ridge Press), written with Kim Lipker.

Although he's invested more time outdoors in the Smoky Mountains, Malloy is a fan of the West and of its campers.

"Westerners are more outdoorsy, and specifically, Coloradans are the most outdoorsy people I've ever seen. It's a way of life there," Malloy said from his home in Johnson City, Tenn.

Malloy has enjoyed tent camping, car camping, backpacking and water-based camping - i.e., by canoe, kayak or raft - but the subtitle of his Colorado volume makes clear that he draws the line at large, self-propelled recreational vehicles:

A guide for campers who hate RVs, concrete slabs and loud portable stereos

Not unexpectedly, his camper pet peeves include people who hang their underwear all over the campground and those who leave trash behind.

"There's nothing more disheartening than when you hike to a remote mountain forest and find piles of cans, paper and cigarette butts," he said.

Malloy encourages native campers and visitors to look beyond the usual, popular camping destinations in the state. Here are a few of his recommended off-the-beaten- track camping destinations.

Pawnee National Grasslands

"Colorado is much more than craggy snow-covered peaks. Head east," Malloy said.

From a distance, the area in northeast Colorado appears a bit stark and empty. Up close, it's one of the few places to experience the big-sky landscape that American Indians and the first settlers experienced, vibrant in summer with a wealth of birds, wildflowers, vistas and stunning landmarks such as the Pawnee Buttes.

Big Dominguez Campground

Near Grand Junction on the Western Slope, this Bureau of Land Management site is only lightly visited despite boasting free admission.

"It's really a different side of Colorado," said Malloy.

He considers Big Dominguez one of the state's tent-camping gems, with red rock cliffs, a nice trout stream, canyon hikes, Indian petroglyphs and tree-shaded campsites.

Echo Park Campground

Malloy rates this site in Dinosaur National Monument as one of the best in the state.

"It's really stunning. I could sit there all day and just watch the shadows move over the rocks and streams," he said.

The area is just below the confluence of the Green and Yampa rivers. Malloy said there's a huge additional benefit: Echo Park is accessible only by four-wheel drive vehicles, so there are few if any RVs lumbering down the rugged access road.

Irish Canyon Campground

Named for robbers who hid there after a Wyoming holdup, this site in the extreme northwestern corner of Colorado is for those who relish solitude and really want to get away from it all. Sights nearby include Vermillion Falls and various Western historical locations.

"And," Malloy said, "the price is right. It's free."

Mesa Verde National Park

While Malloy habitually seeks undiscovered campgrounds, he has high praise for Colorado's national parks, including Rocky Mountain and Great Sand Dunes - except on summer holiday weekends.

"For families, the national parks have a real upside. They're kid- friendly, easily accessible, have guided tours and have a lot more facilities," he said.

His favorite in Colorado is Mesa Verde National Park for its visually distinctive landscape, incredible human history in the cliff dwellings, and range of hiking, camping and learning options. There's even a hotel at Mesa Verde if you need to take a break from the tent.

Pitch your tent

Web-site resources

* recreation.gov: national park campground reservations

* campcolorado.com: searchable listings from the Colorado Campground and Lodge Owners Association

* coloradodirectory.com: searchable Colorado travel directory including campgrounds

* coloradovacation.com: Colorado adventure guide including campgrounds

* nps.gov: national-park info

Books

* Camping Colorado (Globe Pequot), by Melinda Crow

* Colorado Camping (Avalon), by Sarah Ryan

* Colorado Campgrounds: The 100 Best and All the Rest (Westcliffe), by Gil Folsom

Camping tips

Johnny Malloy has a few tips that will help ensure a memorable experience.

* Always call ahead. It's especially important this summer because a large number of campgrounds across the state have been closed or will open later than usual because of the pine-beetle devastation. The huge number of dead trees make hiking and camping more dangerous. Also, always be aware of the local fire-danger level.

* Be prepared. Print out directions and maps. Do some research on the Internet. Bring extra layers of clothing. Pack enough water or locate nearby supplies. Be cognizant of Colorado's notoriously changeable weather, especially on summer afternoons. Always tell someone where you're going. Even Malloy has gotten lost a time or two.

* Make reservations: If you don't want to be disappointed after a long drive, secure a campsite beforehand if you can. Make the reservations now, as the more popular sites will become rapidly booked once Memorial Day rolls around. Take your chances on other campgrounds that are first- come, first-served.

* Bring fun food. Good eats greatly enhance the overall experience. Camping is a rare opportunity for families and friends to sit, cook and eat together without electronic distractions.

* Bring an open mind. Even the best-laid plans can go awry. Be prepared to roll with the punches and make the most of your camping adventure, no matter what happens.

* Don't forget the weather radio. It pays to know what's going on up above when you're one with the outdoors.

* Pack a lighter or two. Forgetting your lighter means no camp- fire, no lighting your stove or lan- tern and an embarrassing visit to your next-door-neighbor campers to ask for what is obvi- ously a camping essential, mak- ing you look like an amateur camper instead of a pro.

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