My idea of summer is sitting in a lovely backyard, sipping a drink and enjoying good food - especially when I can multi-task. So here I was on a lovely summer evening, watching executive chef George Poston of Maggiano's prepare some outrageous food at a cooking class on grilling, while I sipped a white-wine sangria. Some of the class got up to help with the hands-on parts; I was waiting for guys to come and fan me.

The menu wasn't your typical hot dogs and burgers. Poston chose to demonstrate grilled octopus and a Colorado hybrid striped bass. I asked whether he'd counted the legs when he held up the slimy critter that would be part of dinner. Well, I thought it was funny. He added the grilled octopus, cut in pieces, to a salad. As a novelty item, it was OK, tasting like chewy calamari, with more work required than I'm willing to take on. In other words, I'm not trying this at home.

The bass was tasty, and if you've been seeking a PC fish, this is a good one. Still, like all fish, you have to watch out for those little bones, because I know that no matter how many times I'm told that there aren't that many, there they are.

The meal was delicious from start to finish, but the standout of the evening was dessert, a blackberry semifreddo, a partially frozen custard that's perfect for a hot summer evening. Just in case you can't find any guys with fans.

* Speaking of grilling, Omaha Steaks has an easy-to-use, pretty-to-look-at cookbook called The Great American Grilling Book (Time Inc. Home Entertainment, $24.95). I spoke to Omaha Steaks executive chef Karl Marsh by phone to get some quick tips on grilling. Omaha Steaks has a whole line of products available in its catalog and online, from side dishes to steaks to seafood. Who knew?

I ask Marsh for his favorite go-to recipes and tricks of the grill. Here are his recommendations:

* Keep the grill grate clean.

* Tempting though it may be, don't use the same plate to carry the raw and the cooked foods, a big food-safety no-no.

* To get the doneness of the food right, use a thermometer and a timing chart, rather than using the touch method. "Touch takes real practice," Marsh says, "because each cut is different."

* The harder the vegetable, the thinner you cut it for the grill; the softer, the thicker. Always oil vegetables and sprinkle on salt and pepper before grilling.

* Flatiron steaks are the best value for the money. The tender cut doesn't need marinating, though Marsh likes to use a dry rub for added flavor.

* Go-to recipe: corn. Peel off the silk and the husk, slather the corn with mayonnaise and sprinkle with a little chile powder mixed with sugar. Grill and then sprinkle with cotijo cheese.

* Go-to recipe: Grilled Romaine lettuce for Caesar salad. Cut the tips of the leaves off and pull off the outer leaves. Cut the leaves in half lengthwise and brush with oil. Grill first on the flat side; when you flip it, sprinkle on sea salt, fresh-ground black pepper and Parmesan cheese. On the plate, drizzle with Caesar dressing and add grilled crostini or croutons.

meitusm@RockyMountainNews.com

Simple Caesar Dressing

Serves 4

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon warm water

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon anchovy paste, optional

1 cup mayonnaise

* Combine all ingredients but mayonnaise in a blender; puree until smooth.

* Transfer to a medium bowl and whisk in mayonnaise.

* Season with ground black pepper to taste.

* Cover and refrigerate until serving.

- The Great American Grilling Book

Nutritional information per serving: 194 cal., 16 g fat (3 g sat.), 17 mg chol., 11 g carb., 1 g pro., 0 fiber, 400 mg sodium

Blackberry Almond Semifreddo

Serves 5

1 pint fresh blackberries

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

3 teaspoons lemon juice

2 eggs

2 tablespoons toasted almonds

1 cup whipped cream

* Puree the blackberries, strain out the seeds and separate into two containers.

* For the sauce: Add 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 teaspoon lemon juice to half the puree, mix well and reserve cold.

* For the semifreddo: Add 2 teaspoons lemon juice to the remaining puree; reserve.

* Place a mixing bowl over a simmering water bath; with a whip, beat the remaining sugar and eggs. Continue to whip until the temperature of the eggs reaches about 160 degrees.

* Cool the eggs over a bowl of ice, blend in the blackberry puree and fold in the nuts and whipped cream until just blended.

* Spoon into 5 cups and freeze for at least 6 hours or overnight.

* To serve, unmold over dessert plates and garnish with the blackberry sauce.

- Maggiano's Little Italy

Nutritional information per serving: 181 cal., 7 g fat (4 g sat.), 84 mg chol., 27 g carb., 4 g pro., 3 g fiber, 37 mg sodium