Long after most of my friends had made the move to full-suspension bikes, I was reluctant to get rid of my hardtail.

The main reason was because full suspension bikes weigh more. I was worried those extra pounds would slow me down and suck me dry. Still, I knew my friends were having more fun than I was, so I fretted over the decision to get a full-suspension bike: How much extra weight could I handle? How much travel did I need? How much bike could I afford?

As is typical of any big purchase I make, I did assiduous research, talked to dozens of people, rode a handful of bikes, and then went with my gut. It took some adjustment, but three seasons into it, the experiment is a success: I bought a sweeeet red Yeti and I'm having a blast.

Uphills can sometimes hurt a bit more, but the downhills? Boy oh boy are they fun. If you're agonizing over the decision, here's a little information to help guide you:

Weight

While the lighter hardtail mountain bikes weigh around 23 pounds, a full suspension cross-country mountain bike with 4 inches of travel - the distance the rear shock can absorb - will probably weigh in at 25 pounds or more. Decent entry- level bikes will weigh just under 30 pounds.

It is possible to get your bike's weight down even further, but cutting those additional ounces can involve significant expense and some performance trade-offs. Lighter wheels require more maintenance; lighter tires have less tread and less control; lighter parts can flex too much.

Travel

If you prefer long rides with lots of climbing, your best bet is a cross-country mountain bike, which is built for speed and efficiency. Most have 4 inches of travel.

If you want to suck up big jumps or rough terrain at high-speeds, you may be better off with a downhill bike, which can sport up to 10 inches of travel. That extra-smooth ride, however, means extra weight, so most downhillers prefer riding lifts, shuttling by car, or riding trails that don't require significant climbing.

Cost

There's always a fine balance between cost and performance when you're buying a new bike. Expect to pay around $1,600 for a decent, reliable bike that weighs around 30 pounds, upwards of $3,000 for a lighter, high-end one.

As with any piece of equipment, there are some corners you can cut and some compromises you should avoid. In the case of a full-suspension bike, it's important not to skimp on the frame. Cheaper frames get really heavy and tend to bob and bounce, throwing riders around. Good wheels, tires, a good seat and a good front shock also are essential.

Components are a better place to cut costs. Many bikes come with a mix of higher-quality components for crucial elements of the drive train, like the cranks and rear derailleurs, with less expensive, lower-end stems, seat post, handlebars and front derailleur.

Technique

The move to full suspension does require a change in your technique, and it took me quite a few months to figure it out. On my hardtail, I'd pedal fast and furious and often climb out of my saddle to get up tough technical spots; on a full-suspension bike, you take a straighter line, relax and pedal calmly to absorb bumps, rather than powering over them. Riders also should stay in the saddle when climbing because when they stand, the suspension bobs.

Fit

Be sure you get a bike that fits. It won't matter how sweet your bike is - if it doesn't fit you properly, it isn't the right bike for you.

Everybody's doing It

Finally, if you're still worried that extra weight will slow you down, consider this: Most serious riders, even weight-conscious cross-country racers, are now on full-suspension bikes.

And that means that the people you're riding with are probably a little slower on the climbs now, too.