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Dining briefs: Savoring Silk Row

Published July 17, 2008 at 6 p.m.

While Denver doesn't have its own Chinatown, per se, the Far East Center (333 S. Federal Blvd.), a two-story, U-shaped small-mall of Asian commerce, restaurants, markets and grocers, is as close to a bona fide Silk Row as any you'll find in the city.

It's easy to spend the day here, immersed in the multicultural and multigenerational maze of foodstuffs. All of the spots below share the same address:

* Three doors down from Nguyen Hue, Truong An Inc. stockpiles all sorts of mysterious herbal remedies, basic Asian food staples and boxes of exotic Chinese teas. The tea selection is astounding, the staff speaks English, and the shop also peddles beautiful tea sets and dishware.

* At the Little Saigon Supermarket, tilapia swim in a murky fish tank, frozen fish on ice sit front and center near the pig's feet, and the produce area, a jungle of Asian herbs, includes everything from Thai Basil and kaffir lime leaves to lemongrass and honewort. You can also load up on noodles, packaged Chinese sausages and chili pastes.

* Tiny in stature, the Celestial Bakery, Deli and Barbecue is big on Vietnamese sandwiches (binh minh), sweet pastries, barbecued chickens and even dim sum.

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