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Eatery update: Taste of Colorado

Published August 28, 2008 at 7 p.m.

* Today through Monday, A Taste of Colorado, Denver's four-day urban feast-fest, takes center stage at Civic Center, attracting more than 500,000 foodniks who gather on the makeshift gastronomic breeding ground to gorge on everything from medieval-size turkey legs, which fly from the deep fryer in record numbers, to hot dogs, kabobs, burgers, waffles, gelato and falafel.

If you want to brave the ridiculously long lines for Papa John's Pizza (delivery would be so much faster, FYI), I'll kindly shut my pie hole about all the reasons why you shouldn't, and instead suggest you check out what's cooking in the "fine dining" pavilion - even if the "fine dining" descriptor is a bit of a stretch. There, you can nosh from Alto, The Broker, Maggiano's Little Italy, The Old Blinking Light and Shells & Sauce. If previous years are any indication, expect blazing hot sun, all the more reason to cool off with a cone of Dreyer's Grand Ice Cream. Better yet, enter their ice cream eating contest. Admission is free, but food and beverage tickets are $5 for a strip of eight - and it's a cash-only affair.

* Mark your calendar for Tuesday when Mizuna (225 E. Seventh Ave.) hosts a five-course dinner, paired with wines selected by Mizuna grape guru Ryan Person and Domain Select Distributing Master Sommelier Brett Zimmerman. The wine-and- dine begins at 6:45 p.m., and tickets are $100 per person.

* Then, from 3-5:30 p.m. Sept. 15, Luca D'Italia (711 Grant St.) gets into the cheese-making groove, when chef-owner Frank Bonanno teaches the lucky few who book reservations (yes, these classes sell out quickly) how to prepare fresh mozzarella, ricotta and burrata. A three-course meal is included in the price of $50 per person. Reservations for both events: 303-525-1702 or Melissa@ mizunadenver.com.

* The former owners of Wokano Asian Bistro, which is still alive and kicking at 1078 Ogden St., have made the leap to South Broadway's restaurant row, where they've opened Karma Asian (22 S. Broadway) in the space that previously held Min Min Chinese Restaurant. They've Zenned the place up, adding potted plants, serene photos and dark woods, while staying true to the menu, an Asian empire of Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean romps. My favorite choice on the menu? The jaam-bong, an incendiary noodle soup stocked with calamari, shrimp, scallops, Napa cabbage, garlic and enough chilies to burn down a firehouse.

lmidson@gmail.com

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