The relatives from Florida are visiting for the holidays, and you want to wow them with a classic Colorado Christmas scene.

You want towering, snow-capped mountains. You want charming shops, from classy to tacky. You want a town with towering blue spruces strung with holiday lights. You want your relatives' incessant chatter about white-sand beaches and blissful warm days to stop, pronto.

Drive them up to Estes Park.

Mission accomplished. Awe of the scene before them will strike them silent.

The town, gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park, is jammed with tourists in the summer. In the winter, it's a peaceful, quiet place. With fewer tourists, you'll have a little more room to move around the sidewalks and shops, where you can find everything from taffy to T-shirts.

And you'll be gazing at a little piece of Colorado history.

One of the most visited places in Colorado was first meant to be a cattle ranch. Joel Estes had big plans when he hunted in the valley in 1859.

The Rocky Mountain News even played a bit of a role in shaping the town; William Byers, editor of the paper, attempted to scale Longs Peak in 1864, stayed with the Estes family, then named the area in honor of his hosts. When the Stanley Hotel was built in 1909, the town's reputation as a great place to visit was cemented.

With a couple of exceptions, we stuck to Elkhorn Avenue, home of most of the touristy spots, but wander down a side street or two and you'll find many treasures.

The air will be crisp and clean, the scene will be postcard-perfect and the relatives, while slightly chilly, will have to admit that Florida isn't the only slice of paradise in America.

Mountain Classics

Picture a store stuffed with Matchbox cars, miniature airplanes and toy construction equipment. Now who do you suppose is wandering around the store? Little boys eager to get their hands on the cool yellow Firebird with the hood that pops open? Nope. A glance around the shop proves that wrong. Three men well into the prime of their lives were scattered about the store, lovingly gazing upon die-cast metal cars, no doubt recalling their youth and their lifelong fascination with classic cars. The guy manning the shop, which has been open for 16 years, confirmed that the majority of his customers are middle-aged to senior men.

* Don't miss: Die-cast replicas of classic cars. A shiny blue Mustang seemed a steal at $34.99.

* 116 E. Elkhorn Ave. (Inside the Park Theater mall), 970-586-0846

Longs Peak Coffee and Paper House

The address is deceiving. To find this charming spot, walk down Riverside Drive and look to the right (the shop is behind Macdonald Book Shop). You might wander in to get a hot cup of coffee to take the chill off, but we guarantee you'll spend more time than you intended in here. You'll warm right up to an awesome collection of cards, wrapping paper and art supplies, most imported from Italy and India. Scan the shelves near the entrance if you're looking for journals or address books. Haven't bought your holiday cards yet? There are tables full of artistic, sweet, funky, funny cards you won't be able to resist.

* Don't miss: The famous $1 card basket. Who knows why they weren't top sellers. We loved 'em.

* 150 E. Elkhorn Ave., 970-586-3451

Macdonald Book Shop

It has that old-wood smell for good reason. This bookstore has been around for 75 years and has remained in the same family the whole time. Before that, it was a forest-service cabin, and wings have been added on over the years. On a cold day, wander in here and you'll feel as if you're stepping into a cozy home. We were impressed with the vast selection of magazines and the solid collections of everything from mysteries to self-help books.

* Don't miss: The nature guides. Whether you're taking a scenic drive or a hike in Rocky Mountain National Park, you'll want to be able to identify that bird, critter or tree.

* 152 E. Elkhorn Ave., 970-586-3450; macdonaldbooks@aol.com

Spruce HouseUP

So close to the holidays, we couldn't resist stepping into a tiny building that looks like it must be owned by Santa himself. The building has the feel of a cottage, and many of the tiny rooms in this 100-year-old place are crowded with "themed" trees. While White Christmas played in the background, we found trees filled with ornaments to suit everyone on our gift list. If you're still hunting for that perfect something for a niece, sibling, parent or friend, you'll find it here. Consider the gift of an ornament for fans of everything from dolls to sports, angels to cats.

We loved the charming villages. Purchasing an entire Dickens village would be pricey, but you'd be the envy of anyone who spotted the display on your mantel.

Diane Muno, who has owned Spruce House for two years, says the place has been thriving for 28 years.

"We're fortunate; winter is slow in Estes, but our season tends to be longer than some of the other shops in town," she says.

Collectibles sell well here, everything from high-end Santas by Texas artist Lynn Haney to Department 56 villages.

So what's it like to own a store where Christmas music fills the air spring, summer, winter and fall?

"We have a lot of different CDs, everything from Caribbean to classic holiday music, so I don't often get tired of it," Muno says. "But when I catch myself humming Christmas carols on the ride home after work, I know I've had enough."

* 125 Spruce Drive, 970-586-8510; sprucehouse.com

14'ers Cafe

In a down-to-earth town, what you really want when your stomach grumbles is solid, old-fashioned fare. 14'ers serves it up. In the winter, when the tourist season slows down, owner Paul Fishman says his clients are around 90 percent local folk. The diner-like place with counter service is hopping in the winter, testament to the great burgers served up. Walrus ice cream, made in Fort Collins, is also a popular seller; Fishman points out that he's never had a day when he hasn't sold at least one cone, not even during the coldest spells.

Don't miss: The Shavano Burger, a half-pound of beef with avocado, salsa and cheddar.

* 116 E. Elkhorn Ave., inside the Park Theater mall, 970-586-8300

Estes Park Brewery

If you're touring Estes with a gaggle of hungry, cranky children, look no further. Kid-friendly fare - from pizza to burgers - will fill those little bellies. And a cold Estes Park Gold Ale will soothe their parents' aching heads. Pool tables and video games will amuse the kids while they wait for food, and if you're lucky enough to get a table near a window, there's a good chance the family will spot an elk or two wandering by the popular pub. It's easy to find this place; just look for the giant slide at Fun City, right next door.

* Don't miss: The tasting counter on the first floor behind the souvenir T-shirts and hats. We tried a Trail Ridge Red and seasonal Pumpkin Ale. Who says you can't get anything for free?

* 470 Prospect Village Drive, 970-586-5421; epbrewery.com

Mountain Spirit Clothing Company

Aunt Tilly can't leave home without an Estes Park T-shirt? Mountain Spirit is connected to Rocky Mountain Tops, where she'll get her fix of T's. But talk her into ducking into Spirit if she wants to be a tourist who stands apart from the moose-sweat-shirt, I-heart-Estes-Park-T-shirt-clad crowd. Get into an original "spirit" with lacy scarves and bright, flowing skirts. You won't find these threads in any department store. One more perk: You're standing in a little piece of history. In 1906, the Hupp Hotel opened here and for two years was the only hotel on Elkhorn Avenue.

* Don't miss: Colorful tops from Sacred Threads, homespun fabrics made in India. They're a bargain; most are $29.99.

* 101 E. Elkhorn Ave., 970-586-3105

Don't miss!

* Winter Concert Music Festival, featuring everything from mariachi bands to classical pianists

* When: 2 p.m. every Sunday

* Where: Held in various ballrooms in the Stanley Hotel, 333 E. Wonderview Ave.

* Cost: $5 per person. Reservations are not accepted.

* Information: 1-970-586-3371

Parking

In the winter, there is ample parking along side streets and well-marked lots. Bundle up and wear layers. It gets chilly up here and you don't want to have to run back to the car for that extra sweater!

The Wheel Bar

So you're up in Estes Park, showing Aunt Susan and Cousin Jane the sights. They're oohing and aahing over the mountain view, admiring the holiday lights and inhaling the crisp air, and you . . . well, all you want to do is watch the dang game. Fear not. Point them down Elkhorn Avenue and suggest they wander to the end to catch all that outdoorsy magnificence while you duck into the Wheel Bar. This quintessential Western bar, around since 1945, has big-screen TVs, cheering fans and cold beer on tap.

* Don't miss: We were impressed the place has Montana's Moose Drool Brown Ale on tap.

* 132 E. Elkhorn Ave., 970-586-9381

Omnibus

Macho men, beware. This is a store for whimsical, artistic women (although even the most testosterone-filled guys would have to admire the stained glass and metal wall sculptures). If your niece loves earrings, your best friend collects art glass bulbs or you're looking for a last-minute gift for Grandma, head into the store, which has been drawing crowds since 1982.

* Don't miss: Head here for affordable jewelry from names like Boma, Silver Forest, Mark Steel and Holly Yashi.

* 239 W. Elkhorn Ave., 970-586-5523

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