I do not read mystery novels. I get no particular thrill from spotting the clues on those ubiquitous television crime programs. For me and the folks who dine with me, there's the challenge of C.S.I.

We were deeply into Consuming Supper Investigation the other night at Jaya Asian Grill, a modest seven-month-old eatery tucked under a Bennigan's in a shopping center near Interstate 25 and Colorado Boulevard.

We enjoyed the cool Harbin and Tiger beers and the hot jasmine tea, but there was something different about the sweet, creamy, terra cotta-hued Thai iced tea ($2.50). Although they were familiar, we couldn't pull apart the component flavors. Was it orange water or star anise or vanilla that gave it that signature appeal?

We asked the waitress and all she said was: "It's Thai tea." We knew we'd have to crack this case alone.

Our sleuthing continued with the impossible-to-resist smooth peanut sauce that submerged crisply fried triangles of the satay tofu ($4.25) starter.

One guest suggested cinnamon was a key undertone in the layers of heat, salt and herbs in the sauce, but I thought otherwise.

We knew right away why the grilled beef salad ($6.95) made us smile. The dressing on the greens included equal parts fragrant fish sauce and fresh lime to balance out the spice-marinated meat.

One reason for the many wonderful flavor, texture and aroma mysteries is that while Jaya does serve some winning dishes from China, Thailand and Japan, it specializes in cooking from Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore. Sure, they're all related cuisines, but the South Asian preparations have an edge all their own. Here there's no fusion, just authenticity.

Thus, standard calamari upgrades to sotong goreng ($5.25), lightly crusted squid chunks tossed simply with green onions, kosher salt, and coarse black pepper. The Indian-style roti canai ($3.95) is a savory, thin pancake sided with a palate-perking curry dip.

Zesty soup highlights range from nyonya seafood soup ($7.95 for two) to two Thai classics: vegetable packed tom yum goong ($2.75) and a great version of tom kha ($2.50), the chicken coconut soup.

No intrigue is involved in the straightforward steamed shrimp dumplings ($5.95), the lettuce wraps ($6.25) with chopped chicken, and the friendly hot and sour soup ($1.95).

Our internal investigation deepened as we surveyed entrees such as chili ayam Malacca ($9.95). While it resembled a standard Chinese dish, these chicken chunks were shiny - shellacked with a dark, thick sauce, and dotted with peanuts and - Danger! Danger! - red chiles.

We surmised over the course of two Jaya meals that the best way to balance the heat of dishes like that and the pineapple-sweetened Singaporean curry ayam ($9.95) is with forkfuls of smooth coconut rice ($1).

We felt like we were snooping around a West Coast wharf as we dug into the Malaysian specialty, nasi goreng I kan asin ($8.95). The perfectly fried rice with egg and green onion was dotted with bits of salted, preserved fish. The dish looked innocent enough but it boasted a funky perfume and flavor that was surprising at first and addictive thereafter.

We were so impressed with the power of salted fish that we added it to an order of toothsome, verdant Chinese broccoli ($7.95; $2 extra for salted fish) with oyster sauce.

It gets a vote as one of the most memorable vegetable dishes of the year.

The amazing udang sambal goreng ($10.95), a ginger-garlic stir fry of nine huge prawns coated with salt, black pepper and red chile, wins the award for best shrimp preparation.

For simple undisguised pleasure, nothing beats Jaya's beautiful Hainanese chicken ($8.95). One platter is piled with a full half poached chicken, dark and white meat moistened with a very mild soy broth. On the side are fragrant, garlic-ridden rice and two amazing sauces made, we think, from green onion, garlic, ginger, chicken broth and chile.

After all the seasoning greetings, we enjoyed the beef rendang ($9.95) as if it was grandma's beef stew - if your matriarch added lemongrass and coconut milk to her slow-simmered gravy. Equally comfy was a Malaysian relative of Thai "drunken" noodles, chow kway teow ($7.95) combining stir-fried wide rice noodles with beef.

We didn't get to sample standard wok dishes ranging from sesame chicken ($8.95) to mu shu chicken ($8.95) and curries beyond the sizzling Thai green curry ($7.95), but we're sure they are also well-prepared.

We calmed our taste buds with pulut hitam ($3.25), a porridge of black rice and coconut milk, and pisang goreng ($4.25), batter fried bananas in an absolutely glorious coconut crème anglaise sauce.

Our final investigative effort was devoted to uncovering adequate adjectives to describe the flavors and aromas in the durian smoothie ($3.25), made with that distinctive tropical fruit. We detected hints of shallot and garlic, perhaps petrol and something wild and funki-fied that we couldn't pin down. It tasted a little less different than it smelled.

Our munch-able mystery tour got to the bottom of things at the end of our second dinner. We'd been experiencing acute culinary déjá vu. We discovered that Jaya's charming Singapore-born chef-owner formerly operated Isle of Singapore near the University of Denver, the first place we encountered South Asian cooking.

It doesn't take a detective to guess why Jaya Asian Grill is finally being discovered. The fare is so fine, the portions are so generous and the spirit is so genial there that it restores your faith in restaurants.

We'll be back.

Jaya Asian Grill

• Address: 1699 S. Colorado Blvd., Denver

• Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri; noon-10 p.m. Sat.; noon-9 p.m. Sun.

• How much: $1.95-$6.95 starters; $6.95-$16.95

• Reservations: Available

• Noise: Moderate

• Information: 303-757-7887; www.jayagrill.com

John Lehndorff is the dining critic; lehndorffj@rockymountainnews.com or 303-954-5103

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