Beehive Restaurant feels like a moving target. Consequently, it's as tough to wrap your arms around as a greased pig at the state fair.

Owned by Janice Henning and Tim Elenteny, formerly of San Francisco, the food can one time be spectacular and the next time a disappointment. Most of that can be chalked up to the owners' still getting their sea legs, since the place is just in its third month of operation.

Henning's background encompasses working with two of the Bay Area's top restaurateurs, Jeremiah Tower (from Stars) and Mark Franz (Farrallon Restaurant), as well as with the renowned Madeleine Kamman -- so she knows what cooking is all about.

The affable Elenteny works the front of the house, greeting the customers, choosing the eclectic wine list and polishing the stemware. He also has kitchen work at Stars on his resume but seems to enjoy the public side of the business more.

These two have designed and built their restaurant in the former Diced Onions location. Nothing looks familiar, however, because of the extensive renovations. An expansive brick wall became exposed on the north wall, while most of the south side became an exhibition kitchen. Other than a large poster of pasta spiraling around a fork, a mirror on another wall and several antique doors, the decor can best be called austere, allowing food to become the main event.

There isn't a bar to belly up to, although single diners can eat at one of four stools at one end of the kitchen. It could be fun to sit there and observe the action in the kitchen if you're so inclined. However, be mindful of the fact that the cooling system struggles to keep up with the heat from the ovens,

Beehive can accommodate about 50 diners. A private dining room for up to 18 guests -- called the Red Room -- may also be booked.

Tables are dressed spartanly with white linens, silverware and crystal. Service has never faltered, being both attentive and professional. Even though I was recognized each of the five times I dined here, the same level of above-average service appears to be given to all tables.

Beehive's small menu changes frequently, so be aware that the things written about today may not necessarily be around when you arrive. There are generally a half-dozen appetizers and as many entrees.

The brandade ($7) has come and gone several times and has been done in several fashions. This French-bistro staple generally has salted cod with mashed potatoes in pastry. The sauces may vary, anything from a simple yellow pepper coulis to spicy red pepper, and the consistency can change as well. I enjoy it for its simplicity and appreciate the various nuances that a trained chef can bring to the dish.

The soups are always worth considering, even with prices ranging from $5 to $8. Last week's chilled melon soup ($5) had the consistency of creamy baby food, with a kick provided by the chipotle creme fraiche drizzled on top. The interplay of the sweet, cool melon and the fiery pepper cream makes an interesting dichotomy.

Salads can vary tremendously. A terrific warm frisee salad ($8) arrives with perfectly crisp bacon and poached egg in a red wine-dijon vinaigrette. On the other hand, a simple organic lettuce salad ($5) comes drowned in its citrus vinaigrette and goes uneaten. The caesar salad ($7.50) may be one of the simplest in town: whole romaine leaves lightly dressed with anchovy and a sprinkle of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

One of the few entrees that seems to remain on the main is the Moroccan-style chicken ($18). The half-bird tastes surprisingly underspiced considering it has cumin, coriander and tumeric on it. It comes with fluffy apricot couscous and a red pepper relish, which all turns into a quasi-chicken stew on your plate. Even though it's a generous portion, it seems expensive for humble chicken, no matter what dress it gets frocked in.

A surprise is the grilled rib-eye steak ($19). The 10-ounce portion has excellent flavor and comes topped with grilled onions and a slice of bleu cheese compound butter. It's served draped over a mound of home-style new-potato salad with a touch of dill -- a summer picnic staple given an elegant treatment.

Pastas are always represented on the Beehive menu as well. The best has been the spaghetti ala Amatriciana ($14), tossed in a classic tomato sauce with celery, carrots and pecorino Romano cheese, one of the most flavorful in the hard-cheese family. Another dish, penne with Japanese eggplant ($15), with fresh tomato sauce and mozzarella, has relatively little flavor -- and I lost interest in finishing it.

Desserts change daily, and Henning again shows a depth of knowledge with her varied offerings. Some may find them blander than most, but those who enjoy not-too-sweet final courses will relish these. Remember, again, that the menu changes frequently, which is especially true for the desserts.

The bing cherry pudding ($5) is best-described as an Italian panna cotta, a creamy custard that has been infused with fresh bing cherries. It was rapturous. The tiramisu ($5) filled an entire 6-inch dessert plate and had a perfect balance of flavors. OK, being topped with a mountain of whipped cream never hurts.

Henning uses a local "forager" who finds fresh, mostly organic products, all of which are used most effectively with the desserts. A white peach chafouti ($5) has the appearance of peach shortcake, again topped with fresh whipped cream. Leftover bread (which comes originally from either Breadworks in Boulder or the Denver Bread Co.) is used frequently in the bread pudding ($5), mixed with anything from lemon-currant to chocolate chunks.

Prices are high if you consider Beehive a neighborhood hangout -- but it's more than that and will undoubtedly find an audience. The charges aren't outrageous considering that things are rarely priced over $20. Besides, aren't we becoming more like California all the time?